Showing posts with label trends. Show all posts
Showing posts with label trends. Show all posts

Tuesday, February 1, 2011

Moncler Gamme Bleu Fall/Winter 2011-2012 -- The Royal Dog Show


Matthew Schneier review

One of the favorite guessing games of Milan fashion week involves Thom Browne and what kind of spectacle he might be preparing for his always-elaborate Moncler Gamme Bleu show. Last season, it was bicyclists at the Velodrome; the one before, in Florence, a barracks full of slumbering soldiers. This time around, the designer laid the scene at Centro Ippico Lombardo, a horse track a ways out of town.

At trumpet's call, five horsemen, in long red Moncler riding coats bearing the Browne tricolor stripe, trotted out to greet the chilly crowd. And then came the guys on foot, each trailing a reluctant beagle or two. The hunt gave Thom his juice. Cue jodhpurs, high boots, saddlebags, and puffer parkas stitched with shooting patches.

A red rider's coat in the Moncler archive was the departure point for all this. It set Browne on a spin through the fabrics of the chassé, the English houndstooths, and Prince of Wales checks you'd find at a country house party. There were tried-and-true Browneisms—a smattering of shorts suits, some collared with soft Mongolian lamb—and plenty of the quilted, covetable puffer coats that fly off shelves. But it seemed almost churlish to focus on them in the midst of so much spectacle.

Lord knows where Browne will go next season, but likely on hiatus from animal acts. The showman had a word of advice to those seeking to follow in his dramaturgical wake: "Don't work with dogs."


















source: Style.com/

Tuesday, January 25, 2011

Bottega Veneta Fall/Winter 2011-2012


Tim Blanks review

The music for Bottega Veneta today featured an ominous David Lynch soundtrack, which amplified the dark, undone mood of the collection. ("Austere," the press notes called it.) Tomas Maier really had another director in mind, though—the Italian Michelangelo Antonioni, who started out in monochrome neorealism before introducing startling Technicolor into his repertoire in the classic Red Desert. That was kind of the order of things with the clothes the designer showed.

Maier too started with monochrome: dark wool suits, the fabric textured, distressed-looking, the jacket lapels turned up and doubled by the addition of a lapel scarf; trousers tucked loosely into ankle boots; shirts untucked. The first impression was raw. One jacket zipped open across a horizontal center seam, coming apart. Then came the shots of Technicolor: eye-popping orange-red or gemstone green cords, a bright blue duffel, a trench in that red shade.

Maier accepts that the fundamentals of men's fashion don't change that much. "To evolve, you have to reinvent what you already have," he says. One way he does that is by injecting character into his clothes. His men somehow seem like archetypes, never more so than the leather-clad guys who strode down his catwalk today. A washed-leather trench even had a sinister edge. So did an evening jacket in inky velvet. That's Maier's almost cinematic power of suggestion.

Something else that Maier understands is desire. In this collection, the lightness, the lack of obvious structure, the way a cardigan might be layered casually over a jacket implied freedom from restrictions of all kinds. And that's the kind of reinvention many men would crave.





source: Style.com

Saturday, January 15, 2011

Dolce & Gabbana Fall/Winter 2011-2012 - RED LOOKS



Embracing fiery red and rich furs for their fall/winter 2011-2012 collection, Dolce & Gabbana infused their prized Italian machismo with a youthful zest. Shaking up their usual casting with a variety of faces, the designing duo put on display a myriad of influences. From the classic musical styling of Bryan Ferry to the label’s ongoing fascination with the working man or a spunky take on tomorrow’s scholar, Dolce & Gabbana impressed with velvet, color and an endless amount of charm. Rounding out the collection with pinstripes, braces and wingtips, the label put a cool new spin on the marriage of old and new style motifs.







Dolce & Gabbana Fall/Winter 2011-2012 Menswear


Embracing fiery red and rich furs for their fall/winter 2011-2012 collection, Dolce & Gabbana infused their prized Italian machismo with a youthful zest. Shaking up their usual casting with a variety of faces, the designing duo put on display a myriad of influences. From the classic musical styling of Bryan Ferry to the label’s ongoing fascination with the working man or a spunky take on tomorrow’s scholar, Dolce & Gabbana impressed with velvet, color and an endless amount of charm. Rounding out the collection with pinstripes, braces and wingtips, the label put a cool new spin on the marriage of old and new style motifs.




fur jackets....


Tim Blanks review

There was a brilliant Dries Van Noten show some years back that celebrated Bryan Ferry's early-seventies leopard-clad glamness, but his subsequent career as rock's Most Elegant Man has been a significantly under-exploited inspiration in contemporary menswear. Until today, that is, when Domenico Dolce and Stefano Gabbana made him the launchpad for their latest collection. Ferry's record covers were all over the mood board, his music was all over the show, and there he was on the seasonal "icon" T-shirt. It seemed entirely appropriate, then, that the man himself was front-row center. But the show's theme, Sartoria Eccentrica, actually had much less to do with Ferry's own classic style than the designers' re-tailoring of anything classic, starting at Savile Row, for a much younger audience.

The singer's taste for West End girls is well-documented—the beauteous Amanda Sheppard was at his side today. The clothes on the runway, though, were better suited to East End boys. Low-rise, multi-pocketed pants were slung off skinny suspenders. One model sported Freddy Krueger stripes and a trilby casually tossed back on his head. There was a spiffy edge to a checked, fitted, double-breasted jacket, while cropped, double-vented jackets and those pegged, low-slung pants created a boxy, bubble-butted silhouette that added beef to the already buff models. Add that to the chunky, bovver-ready footwear and these boys were a bit of rough fighters, not lovers. But wasn't Bryan Ferry famously a slave to love?

Domenico and Stefano threw the lovers a bone with a couple of pavé-sequined jackets in pink and black, then they closed the show with their own quintessential march past of black velvet jackets and distressed Dolce denims. Call it glam for a brash, butch new age. As for Ferry's more rarified brand of contemporary glamour? That remains to be explored another day.




source: Style.com/


Sunday, January 9, 2011

Monday, January 3, 2011

I Love... Leopard studded loafers by Giacomorelli




Adidas Superskate Mid (studded)



Due for a February 2011 release are these glitzy adidas Superskate mids. With cream suede signature stripes and a heavy smattering of square silver studs, there's no chance of these glamazons going unnoticed. The all leather white upper is served up with another splashing of silver thanks to the iconic trefoil logo stamped on the tongue. Available now for pre-order online at Styles.

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